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How to Choose Yarn: A Guide to Fibres, Weight and Quality

How to choose yarn for a cardigan, sweater or socks: natural fibres, yarn weight, yardage, twist, and how to test quality by touch.

How to Choose Yarn: A Guide to Fibres, Weight and Quality

In short

  • Start with purpose: a light cardigan, a warm sweater or socks.
  • For next-to-skin pieces choose fine natural fibres: kid mohair, silk, merino, cashmere.
  • Check metres per 100 g: it tells you the thickness.
  • Test yarn on your neck or wrist and give it a gentle stretch.

Yarn decides how a piece looks, how warm it is and how long it lasts. Here is how we choose it in our atelier, and the same principles help even if you are buying a finished garment.

1. Start with purpose

Piece What it needs Best fibre
Light cardigan airiness, warmth without weight kid mohair + silk
Warm winter cardigan volume, warmth mohair + merino
Socks softness, strength mohair + silk, merino with nylon
For sensitive skin maximum softness cashmere, extra-fine merino

2. Natural or synthetic

Natural fibres breathe, regulate temperature and age beautifully. A small share of synthetics (nylon in socks, a metallic thread for shimmer) can make sense. But “mohair” with 60% acrylic is a different thing. More in Natural vs synthetic yarn.

3. Thickness and yardage

Check the label for metres (or yards) per 100 g. More metres means a finer thread. Kid mohair with silk, for example, has very high yardage: a fine thread for a weightless fabric. How to read a label: see this guide.

4. Twist and evenness

Quality yarn is even along its length, without slubs or thin spots. Loosely twisted yarn is softer but pills more; very tight twist feels harder.

5. The touch test

  • Hold the skein to your neck or the inside of your wrist.
  • Gently stretch a strand: it should spring back.
  • Rub it between your fingers: if fuzz of short fibres appears at once, it will pill quickly.

6. Colour

Compare colour in daylight. If you buy several skeins, keep to one dye lot (the lot number on the label).

If you don’t knit

The same signs help you choose finished knitwear: the fibre label, even fabric, spring, softness at the neck. More in How to spot quality knitwear.

FAQ

What is the best yarn for a cardigan?

For a light one, kid mohair with silk; for a warm one, mohair with merino or pure merino.

Why is Italian yarn more expensive?

Fibre quality, worsted spinning, dyeing and finishing. We explain here.

What does the lot number on a label mean?

It is the dye batch. Skeins from different lots can differ slightly in shade.

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