In short
- Pills form from short fibres that work their way to the surface through friction.
- Quality yarn with long combed fibre and a silk core pills minimally.
- Remove pills with a knitwear comb or a fabric shaver on its highest setting.
- Early pilling sheds loose fibres; it usually lessens over time.
Pills are every knitwear owner’s fear. In reality they have little to do with a “bad” garment and a lot to do with fibre type and friction.
Where pills come from
Every yarn contains some short fibres. Friction (a bag strap, a belt, elbows) brings them to the surface, where they twist into little balls. The more short fibres and the looser the twist, the more pills.
What makes a difference
| Factor | More pilling | Less pilling |
|---|---|---|
| Fibre | cashmere, angora, acrylic | mohair, silk, combed merino |
| Spinning | carded, loose twist | worsted-combed, even twist |
| Wear | bag straps, friction | relaxed fit |
Mohair has a long, smooth fibre, so it pills less than cashmere. And Italian worsted spinning removes most short fibres before the yarn ever reaches us.
Shop the edit
Kid Mohair & Silk Cardigan with Flared Sleeves, Fuchsia · $175
Kid Mohair & Silk Cardigan, Sky Blue · $175
Kid Mohair & Silk Ruffle-Sleeve Cardigan, Green · $175How to remove pills
- Lay the piece on a flat surface.
- Use a cashmere comb or a fabric shaver set to its highest blade position; the blade should not touch the fabric.
- Move lightly in one direction.
- For fluffy mohair, use only a soft brush: a shaver can cut off the halo.
How to prevent them
- Do not carry a shoulder bag in the same spot every day.
- Turn the piece inside out before washing.
- Let knitwear rest between wears.
- Follow the washing rules.
FAQ
Do pills mean poor quality?
Not necessarily; even luxury cashmere pills. What matters is that the fabric stays even after pills are removed.
Can I use a fabric shaver on mohair?
Carefully, and only on the highest setting, or you will cut the halo. A soft brush is better.
Does tape remove pills?
A lint roller picks up loose fluff but not the pills themselves; it only refreshes the surface.
